With a desire to have a key fob entry, I ordered a new simple system from Ebay with two remotes for $25 delivered. Seems pretty complicated, at least for me. Instruction not very clear.
Basically, there are two 30amp relays on board, that provide +12V to Common Lock and Unlock. These are the only two outputs that do not require external relays. First push of unlock, unlocks Driver door, our only door, second push sends a -200ma signal on another wire for the other passenger doors, which I will use for the Bay doors. Will have to use a relay to convert the signal to 12v positive, which is what is needed to work the Bay unlock relay in the Door bell compartment. The horn is -200ma, which works fine on the BB horn relay, where input to the relay from the horn is -negative, or ground. Park lights could be +or- by changing a pin set, and was set + factory, which is what is needed, as the input to the BB park light relay is positive 12v, I think it is 200ma also.
V I started looking for the necessary places to attach the connections. Decided the best place to mount the brain was in the compartment behind the new flat screen tv that lifts up for complete access. Note the computer mounted to the left that runs my Delorme Map for the big screen and my SilverLeaf.
the system Requires 12V power and Ignition, which I got from the OH behind the door bell.
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Found two empty fuse sockets, one 12v constant Fuse #4 and an ignition powered fuse block on the right of that, fuse #20. In the same compartment is the two, looks like starter solenoids, for the Bay door, lock and un lock. The number one on the left is the unlock, the number two, on the right is the lock. the positive input to each is the small wire, center left. But not easy to get the nut off for the connection. So I connected to the UnLock where it hooks to the block on the upper right side. Notice the yellow wire connection on bottom of the block, upper far right, Blue wire #4 coming down to it from the top. The solenoid input is positive, so I used a cube relay to switch the -200ma to positive. Relay is mounted on the far left bottom, all yellow wires going to it. Can't tie the door lock feed directly into the lock solenoid or locking the bays would also lock the door. I will use another cube relay to isolate the two.
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Click on one of the pictures above for a large detailed view of the OH compartment wiring
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The door lock was a little more elusive. The one by the passenger door would be hard to get a wire to, and so would the one on the lower dash.
Opened the front panel and started switching the door lock/unlock till I found the two relays, #10 lock and #11 unlock. Both are at the top, and mounted so tight on the bottom it was impossible to get a splitter connections on.
Each has a green wire coming off of the input, and going into a tight wire bundle and disappearing toward the right side.
Guessing, checked two green wires heading into the interior, and luck was with me. A simple saddle connecter would be all that was needed.
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Next, the park lights and Horn. Park lights, relay #41, input on the positive side, left white connection. Horn, relay #25, input on the negative right side. Both made with splitters, not much room but it works.
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Two wire 18ga over to the lock connection and connect to the 8 wire 18ga.
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Now to find a way to get the 8 wire from the front panel to the overhead.
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There are two screws in the windshield drape wrap molding, on both sides of the ws. The left was what I needed, and plenty of room behind it. The dash butts up pretty close, tho I could push a wire from the front panel through it.
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However, this was an opportunity to hid the wire going from my SilverLeaf electronics module, to the computer in the compartment behind the TV. I took a 1 inch hole saw and drilled a hole, that is well hidden behind the molding. I fished the silverLeaf plug connector fron under the dash through to the front panel. I pushed an eight wire 18gage thermostat cable through and the SilverLeaf plug connector, leaving the SilverLeaf module accessible, laying on the dash, against the hole. The drape molding is metal, bending the bottom edge a little, it sits on top of the SilverLeaf cable and USB feed. Wires exits above the molding and enter the OH compartment, where the brain is mounted on the right side, high.
The ground is attached to the the metal on the lower part of the compartment, with a self taping screw. The antenna for the module just lays against the front fiberglass cap. the push button valet button to the system was drilled into the cabinet face, behind the TV right edge. The red light, drops through an already drilled hole near the windshield to attach to the 7 inch GPS and clearly visibly through the WS. This really cleaned up my hanging wires on the dash. The USB port on the left has my WiFi in it and gives me access to the computer and able to display on the big screen.
This is the simple solution to heat escaping the AquaHot to the engine while in storage.
Rev Nov. 23th, 2014